When the earth trembles: the ephemeral beauty of the oasis village

As we didn’t manage to reach the desert oasis of Tadakoust, we spent the night in the middle of the desert, far away from any civilization. Darkness enveloped our Terra Love and a deep silence fell over the vast, mountainous landscape. The starry sky stretched endlessly, while the wind gently brushed the stony hills. There was no noise, no traffic – just the untouched nature that reigns supreme here.

Now, in the early morning, when the first gentle rays of the sun touch the horizon, the desert begins to awaken. The mountains of the Anti-Atlas slowly lose their dark gray and are increasingly illuminated by the golden light and the coolness of the night gives way to the approaching heat of the day. Everything seems peaceful, the colors of the sky change and the silence that was omnipresent during the night now feels calming and harmonious. We watch as the sun slowly rises, as if filling the desert with new energy. The air is still fresh, and at this moment there is only us, nature and the feeling of being one with the world – a moment of pure freedom and serenity.

After I have transferred yesterday’s pictures to the laptop and Tanja has prepared a delicious breakfast for us, we continue our journey towards the oasis of Tadakoust. Since yesterday, we have covered around 60 kilometers on this lonely stretch of road. Even if that doesn’t sound like much, it has taken much longer than expected. The rough nature of the track and the endless expanses have taken us into a fascinating but also challenging world. Although we really enjoy the remoteness and beauty of nature out here, we are relieved when the first fences and scattered houses appear at the side of the road – signs that we are slowly getting closer to human civilization again. After the sometimes treacherous, constantly branching stone track, this feeling is strangely reassuring.

We reach the three cone-shaped mountains of Tadakoust, affectionately known as the “Triad of Tadakoust”. “Wow!”, Tanja exclaims, amazed at the impressive sight. These extraordinary formations of hard rock are of volcanic origin. Their striking conical shape has been formed over thousands of years by erosion and geological processes and gives the landscape an almost magical atmosphere. Their peaks seem to touch the clouds, while gentle hills and endless desert plains surround them like protective arms. Here, in this magical place, we feel a profound connection with nature. It seems as if the mountains are whispering a secret to us that we believe we can hear because we are ready to embrace the beauty of this remote place.

“Look, Tanja, that pool of water up ahead!” I say as we approach Tadakoust. “It’s hard to believe how such a small pool exists here in the middle of the desert.” Tanja nods and we stop for a moment to take in the tranquillity of this place. “I find it fascinating that the water comes directly from the underground springs of the Atlas Mountains,” Tanja adds. “Yes, that’s exactly what makes it so special,” I reply. “It is constantly replenished and always remains full of life in this barren environment.” We watch as birds come to drink and search for food in the lush plants around the pool. Here, in this seemingly inconspicuous place, there is a whole little ecosystem – a refuge for the animals and a symbol of vitality in the middle of the endless expanse of the desert.

“Where are we supposed to park here?” asks Tanja when we arrive in Tadakoust and realize how little space there is for a large vehicle like ours. “Not so easy here,” I reply and let my gaze wander over the area. Finally, we discover a flat area with firm ground outside the village. “It might work over there,” I suggest and carefully steer the Terra Love towards the square. Tanja nods in agreement. “Better this way than getting stuck in the sand,” she laughs, and I agree.

As we get out and survey the area, we talk about how important it is to check the ground conditions carefully in rural areas like this – the ground here is often sandy and deceptively soft. “But look,” I say, pointing to the firm ground beneath our feet, “we’re on the safe side here and have enough distance from the irrigation channels of the oasis.” Tanja smiles contentedly. “And the peace and quiet is perfect,” she adds. We feel good to have found an ideal spot where we can enjoy the landscape without disturbing the surroundings.

As soon as we leave our Terra Love, we are greeted warmly by women on their way to their fields. The contact is friendly and open. The inhabitants of these remote regions are used to welcoming travelers and often show impressive hospitality.

We communicate mostly through simple words, gestures or with the help of translation apps if the language barrier is too great. Many people in the region speak Arabic or Berber dialects, and some also speak French. With a smile and a respectful greeting, connections can be made quickly, which makes communication easier.

The scenery of this original village, which rises on the slopes of an impressive mountain formation with three striking rock towers, is hard to beat. The ruins of an old agadir, a traditional granary castle, can still be seen on one of the towers. The village with its characteristic clay and stone houses spreads out below this historic site. Around 540 people live here and maintain the traditional way of life that is deeply rooted in the culture of this remote region.

With a mixture of curiosity and excitement, we begin our foray through the winding alleyways of Tadakoust. Suddenly we stop as we notice the destruction of many houses. “Do you see that, Denis? These piles of rubble everywhere … and the walls look so unstable.” “Yes, it’s really frightening. You have to be careful here not to get hit on the head by a stone,” I reply as I walk on uncertainly. “I have to say, I don’t feel very comfortable here. These houses really look like they could collapse at any moment.” “I feel the same way,” says Tanja. “But there’s something about this deserted, slightly threatening picture … it tells us so much about times gone by.” “You know, Tanja,” I say thoughtfully, “although so much here is in ruins, the community still lives among the ruins. Look, up ahead – a door that leads to an area that is obviously still inhabited.” “Yes, amazing. Maybe there was an earthquake here recently? The region is seismically active,” Tanja replies and looks around. “The tremors, combined with the natural erosion, could simply destroy the old walls piece by piece.” “That’s right, and many of the houses are built from rammed earth and natural stone. Of course, these materials suffer enormously in heavy rainfall or extreme heat,” I add. “It’s a balancing act between preservation and destruction.” “And yet the people hold on to living here. Kind of admirable, don’t you think?” “Of course, the migration of people to the cities doesn’t make it any easier here,” I think aloud. “The fewer people stay, the more difficult it becomes to look after the old houses. Over time, the means and opportunities for maintenance are simply lacking.” Tanja nods thoughtfully. “And modern building materials or construction techniques? They hardly ever come to remote villages like Tadakoust. Without access to them, the only option is traditional materials, which are not exactly robust against the climatic challenges here.” “Exactly. The strong temperature fluctuations, the heavy rainfall … all this puts additional strain on the buildings. And when there are also occasional earthquakes, decay is practically pre-programmed.” “It’s a mixture of everything – nature, climate, economy. A combination that is slowly causing the old buildings here to crumble.”

As in other oasis villages that we have visited so far, there are also many narrow passageways between the houses in Tadakoust. As mentioned in our previous videos, they fulfill several practical and cultural functions. They provide protection from strong sunlight and heat, which enables natural cooling of the living spaces and is particularly beneficial in the hot summer months. In addition, the narrow passageways and tunnels act as protection from strong winds and rain, minimizing the effects of extreme weather conditions. Historically, they also provided defense, as they made it difficult for intruders to move around the village and attack the houses.

In the mountainous and limited terrain structure, the narrow corridors enable efficient use of the available space without requiring large open areas. At the same time, they promote social interaction between the villagers and create a communal atmosphere due to the proximity of the houses. Building with clay and local materials is a practical solution that has evolved over generations and illustrates the adaptability of Berber culture to its environment.

“You know, Tanja,” I say with a smile, “when we meet the Berbers, their hospitality touches me every time. It’s more than mere politeness – almost like a sacred duty for them.” Tanja nods and replies: “Yes, absolutely. Hospitality is deeply rooted in their culture. It’s fascinating how naturally they invite us in, for example for a glass of tea.” “Exactly, this typical, highly sweetened tea that they call ‘Whisky Berbère’,” I add with a smile. “For them, a glass of tea isn’t just a drink – it’s an expression of respect and goodwill.” “And I think it’s wonderful that guests here are often seen as ‘gifts from Allah’,” Tanja says quietly. “They really do everything they can to make you feel welcome.

It comes across so honestly and warmly when they share their stories and wisdom with us.” “Yes, these are exactly the moments that make traveling so special for me,” I reply as we continue to stroll through the alleyways. We discover the small museum in Tadakoust, which takes visitors on a fascinating journey through the history and culture of the Berbers in this region – absolutely worth a visit! Unfortunately, it is currently closed. The owner, Abdeslam Ait Hussein, known as Baba Ali, not only presents numerous everyday objects from the village as well as prehistoric arrowheads, hand axes and animal remains that he has collected, but also tells personal stories that are rarely found in books – an experience that makes the visit particularly worthwhile.
“Tanja, look,” I say as we finally leave the narrow labyrinth of alleyways behind us and the date plantations and gardens appear in front of us. “This is exactly how I always imagined an oasis when I was a little boy – full of life, lightness and surrounded by lush greenery.” Tanja smiles and looks around enthusiastically: “Yes, it really is like something out of a fairy tale! All this fresh green everywhere, and the rippling of the water … It creates such a peaceful atmosphere.” “And this irrigation system – the khettara – is simply fascinating,” I add, as we follow the gentle murmur of the water. “Over 1,000 years ago, people in desert regions built canals to bring water here from higher springs. The water flows directly to the fields without a pump, just by gravity.” “It’s impressive how the villagers regularly maintain the system so that the water flows unhindered,” says Tanja. “It really is more than just a technique – it’s part of the culture and strengthens the cohesion of the people here.”

“Yes, that’s the magic of this place. The nature, the history, the community – everything resonates together,’ I say quietly as we continue to immerse ourselves in the green oasis.

An astonishing variety of agricultural yields surprises us, perfectly adapted to the climatic and geographical conditions of the region. Date palms are the centerpiece here – they not only provide the people with food, but are also a valuable commodity on the local markets. In addition to dates, cereals such as wheat and barley grow here, which form the basis of the villagers’ diet.

The fertile soils also produce a rich harvest of vegetables such as onions, carrots, tomatoes and zucchinis, which enrich the daily diet. Fruit trees such as figs, pomegranates and olives offer their delicious and nutritious fruits, which have a firm place in the local cuisine. And then there are pulses such as beans and lentils, which are an important source of protein. A true paradise for anyone who values fresh, natural food!

We are surprised by the impressive variety of agricultural products that are perfectly adapted to the climate and geography of the region. Date palms are the absolute highlight here – they are not only an important source of food, but also a valuable commodity that is sold at the local markets. In addition to the sweet dates, grains such as wheat and barley also grow here, which form the staple diet of the villagers.

But that’s not all! The fertile soils of the oasis also produce a rich harvest of vegetables such as onions, carrots, tomatoes and zucchinis, which perfectly complement the daily diet. And then there are the fruit trees: figs, pomegranates and olives provide delicious, nutritious fruits that play a major role in the local cuisine. The whole thing is rounded off with pulses such as beans and lentils, which are a valuable source of protein. A real paradise for anyone who appreciates fresh, natural food!

“Have you heard about the legends of this region?” I ask, after we have walked through this impressive place side by side in fascination and silence. “No, tell me!” she says, eager to hear the story.

“There is a legend about a powerful king called Aït Raghay, who I read about yesterday. He had the ability to communicate with the spirits of the mountains. In times of need, he often traveled to the peaks to seek advice. The Berbers believed that the spirits were the souls of their ancestors and could offer valuable wisdom.” “One day, when a great drought struck the land, he decided to climb the highest peak and ask the water spirit for help. While he was praying, a mystical shadow appeared and revealed to him that the key to water lay in the unity of the tribes.” “That’s impressive. And what did he do then?” “He called the other kings together and persuaded them to put aside their differences to work together to secure the water supply. This meeting became a symbol of unity and cohesion.” “After this meeting, clouds gathered, it began to rain and the fields blossomed. From then on, the Berber kings were seen not only as rulers, but also as guardians of the land.” “Wow, that’s a powerful message! It shows the importance of unity and respect for nature.” “Exactly! And it reminds us that courage, wisdom and cooperation are highly valued in Berber culture. This legend has a strong relevance for our times – especially in relation to the challenges we face globally.” “That’s right! It’s so important to overcome differences and work together for positive change,” Tanja says thoughtfully. “Yes, that’s the lesson from history that can still inspire us today,” I reply, feeling touched by the depth of the legend.

We reach our Terra Love again in the late afternoon. On our off-road tour from the oasis village of Icht to Tadakoust, which led through very stony terrain, I had reduced the tire pressure to achieve better suspension and less impact on the vehicle and cabin: from 6 bar to 4 bar at the front and from 7 bar to 5.5 bar at the rear. Although lower air pressure increases driving comfort, it also increases the risk of tire damage. As we are continuing our journey today on a normal asphalt road, I now have to inflate the tires again. We have a compressor, tire inflation hoses and a pressure gauge on board for this. Some drivers lower the air pressure even further, but the lower the pressure, the greater the risk of a puncture. The softer tire deforms more, which means that the sidewall has more contact with the ground and hits sharp stones or edges more easily, which can lead to cuts or abrasion. In addition, the lower air pressure can push the carcass to its limits, especially in the event of repeated or heavy impacts. The inner structure of the carcass, which consists of layers of fabric and steel threads, is subjected to greater stress due to the increased flexibility, which can result in cracks or breaks.

After an unforgettable day in the oasis village of Tadakoust, we make our way back to Icht – but this time on the well-paved road. It feels almost unusually quiet, and we let the impressions of the Anti-Atlas Mountains, which stretch from the Atlantic to the east of Ouarzazate, take effect on us once again.

The Anti-Atlas Mountains never cease to fascinate us: the red, brown and ochre rock formations, the rugged slate and granite cliffs that offer a glimpse into the ancient history of this landscape – traces of the Precambrian can be seen here. The highest elevations, such as Djebel Siroua, an extinct volcano, reach around 2,700 meters. Even in this barren expanse, hardy plants such as acacias, thorn bushes and date palms find their place and show their strength to survive here.

As we look at the passing landscapes, we think of the people of the Amazigh Berber tribe, who have preserved their language, crafts and traditions to this day. The small villages, the palm groves and the adobe buildings of Tadakoust and Icht remain vivid in our memories. Their inhabitants lead a simple but rich life, and we were touched by their warm hospitality.

“Do you know what I’m wondering?” I say after a while. “How many caravans must have taken these trade routes through the Sahara over the centuries. There’s a sense of adventure and history in the air here.” “It almost feels like we’re part of this long history ourselves,” she agrees. “Even though we are now driving on an asphalt road, my thoughts are still on the off-road route between Tadakoust and Icht. The narrow paths, the scree and the rocky sections – our Terra Love really got us through it!” “Absolutely,” I say with a smile. “These experiences are what make the trip special and show us time and again how reliable our vehicle is.” “And the nature here is simply fascinating,” adds Tanja. “The Anti-Atlas Mountains may be barren, but they are teeming with life: Desert foxes, small lizards, desert eagles and even hornbills.” “Not forgetting the snakes,” I remind her with a grin. “The poisonous cobra and the sand boa that crawl through the landscape here. And then there are the gazelles and wild boars that are said to exist here. The wildlife is just as impressive as the landscape itself.”

The section between Tadakoust and Icht is a very special experience for us. It combines intense natural and cultural experiences that captivate us as adventurous travelers. The impressive landscapes, the ancient rocks and the traditional Berber villages create a unique atmosphere that captivates us. This route in southern Morocco not only challenges our driving skills, but also opens the doors to deep insights into the local culture that touch us again and again.

In the evening, we arrive back at the Borj Biramane campsite, which we left a few days ago to make our way through the stony desert to Tadakoust. We stay here for a few days before setting off on our next adventure towards the desert town of Tafraout.