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Russia/Charanzy Link to the TRANS-OST-EXPEDITION diary - stage 4

In our log cabin on the Baikal

N 53°13'36.1'' E 107°24'47.1''
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    Day: 59-63

    Sunrise:
    06:25 – 06:32

    Sunset:
    21:25- 21:16

    As the crow flies:
    13.92 Km

    Daily kilometers:
    17.07 Km

    Total kilometers:
    12438.86 Km

    Soil condition:
    Sand / clay

    Temperature – Day (maximum):
    26 °C

    Temperature – day (minimum):
    13 °C

    Temperature – Night:
    7 °C

    Latitude:
    53°13’36.1”

    Longitude:
    107°24’47.1”

    Maximum height:
    690 m above sea level

    Maximum depth:
    450 m above sea level

    Time of departure:
    12:00 p.m.

    Arrival time:
    3:30 pm

    Average speed:
    9.0 Km/h

The days with Simone and Leonid fly by. I use them to write about my experiences in our wooden hut. During the thinking phases, I look out of the window and see Father Baikal. The wind picks up and white crests quickly form. Seagulls screech, scream and call all day long. They live not far from our hut on a rock in the lake. In the evening we grill fresh fish on a big fire. We talk into the night with Simone, Leonid and Stefan.

One afternoon, a gifted pianist comes from Irkutsk. Simone and Leonid are friends with him. He uses the time of his visit to tune their piano. He then gives a concert for guests on the tuned piano. Although we are also invited to listen to the sounds of the pianist in the living room of the beautiful wooden hut, we prefer to watch him play from our terrace. Satisfied with our world, we sit and listen to classical music while watching the glowing red sun sink behind Baikal.

The banya is heated up on Friday. So once a week there is the opportunity to wash with hot water. Tanja cooks in the kitchen, which is in the old house that was there when Simone and Leonid bought the property. Stefan, a motorcyclist, currently lives in it. Hans lives in another very small old wooden house. He is a retired lawyer and is spending his one-month vacation here. Last year, he spent a month in the Siberian winter with Simone and Leonid. An experience he would not want to miss.

“Do you want to come to the restaurant opening?” Simone asks us. “Gladly,” we say happily. On the way to the large wooden hut, Simone tells us that a young Buryat woman called Sveta is opening this restaurant with her husband. “I’ve known Sveta since she was a child. She is one of the children we are supporting to pave the way for a better future. She has managed to turn her back on the poor, often hopeless village life. Today she lives with her husband in Irkutsk. We have always talked about how it would be a good idea to open a restaurant in the village and Sveta and her husband have now turned this idea into reality and have returned to the island for this project.”

When we enter the Buryat inn, many guests are already there. There are salads, bread and fish on the tables. Loud disco music booms through the large loudspeakers. As she falls silent, some women begin to sing Buryat songs. Everyone here drank a lot. The singing resembles a roar. Then we dance. A Buryat dance. The people walk holding hands in an opening and closing circle. However, the rest of the tradition is already being shouted down by American disco music. The old granny next to me stands up, swaying, and starts to dance to the rhythm of the music. All alone. She enjoys herself and laughs exuberantly. Other women join her. A few men also enter the dance floor. Suddenly the music stops again. The system has failed. Everyone laughs heartily. A drunk woman gives a long speech. We toast and congratulate them. Everyone wishes the couple good luck, much success and many guests for their new restaurant. It is midnight when we make our way home again. But the Buryats continue to celebrate until sunrise.

We look forward to your comments!

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