Sudden onset of winter at Steinfjord

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In the morning, the snow has moved from the mountain peaks down into the valley. The beach is white. Seaweed that has washed ashore creates interesting black patterns in the snow. The wintry shore nestles like a white ribbon against the salty waters of the gray North Sea. Scattered delicate clouds are reflected on its smooth surface. Whereas yesterday the landscape was dominated by the colors yellow and green, today they are white and grey. Only the sky has kept its blue. Just where a few gentle rays of sunlight fall, the surrounding rock faces glow in a friendly light. If we turn our gaze northwards to the end of the bay, where the sea seems to merge with infinity, we notice a dark cloud front. Not a breath of wind can be felt. There is something threatening in the air, as if we were on the brink of a storm. Tanja goes for a walk with Ajaci. She enjoys the strange atmosphere, collects shells whose yellow backs push through the snow and does a few yoga exercises. “What a beautiful picture,” I think, watching them against the breathtaking backdrop of the – Vrksasana (tree pose) on the sugared white beach. Ajaci seems to be enjoying the onset of winter and eats snow as if it were the most delicious ice cream. Suddenly, as if a superior power wanted to swallow up the world, the mountain flanks and the entire bay disappear in a rising wall of mist. I look spellbound at the swirling wall approaching over the water. I think I recognize an old Viking warship in the constantly changing shapes and shadows. It’s crazy what the imagination can conjure up. “Phew, it’s cold,” says Tanja, entering our mobile home. “Yes, it’s gotten really cold. It looks like the Nordic winter is now fast approaching. I find it fascinating to see how the landscape can change in the blink of an eye,” I say. “Absolutely fascinating. Even though I love the warmth of the south more, I’m happy to be able to experience such extreme weather changes,” Tanja agrees. “It’s a good thing we went on our bike ride yesterday. That would have been impossible today. I have the feeling that the cycling season is now over once and for all,” I continue our conversation. “I hope we don’t get snowed in here. Fynja, the old lady who lives at the end of the bay, warned me about winter. They say the roads will be closed and no longer cleared.” “I doubt that the Norwegian government will let the people living here starve. Even if the locals have food supplies, they certainly have to go shopping from time to time. They will clear the mountain roads from time to time just for that.” “Maybe, but we shouldn’t stay here too long anyway. We’re already running out of food,” warns Tanja. “We have to go shopping in Skaland tomorrow,” I think. “You mean the little place on the other side of the tunnel?” “Yes.” “But it will be very expensive there. I’d rather go to the town of Finnsnes. There’s a shopping center there and everything is much, much cheaper. At least that’s what Fynia told me.” “It’s 120 km there and back to Finnsnes and 8 km to Skaland. If I think about the wintry road conditions now, shopping in Finnsnes will take a whole day. And then there are the expensive fuel prices. I don’t think it’s worth it.” “Probably, so let’s go through the tunnel to Skaland tomorrow. We need fresh fruit, vegetables, potatoes, etc.” “I agree,” I say, looking forward to our short shopping trip on the other side of the mountain range after nine days on the Steinfjord.

After night fell over our bay, the thick clouds of fog suddenly disappeared. We sit at the panoramic window of our Terra Love and gaze into the blackness of the night until it is lit up by the glowing northern lights, as it soon is every evening…