Set up our mobile satellite transmission

Day: 4-6

Sunrise:
05:23 h/05:25 h

Sunset:
8:34 pm/20:31 pm

Temperature – Day (maximum):
30 °C

Temperature – day (minimum):
25 °C

Temperature – Night:
21 °C

Latitude:
47°55’513”

Longitude:
106°55’559”

Maximum height:
1315 m above sea level

We do yoga every morning to keep fit while running around to the authorities and running errands. Although I can hardly bring myself to do them due to my constant fatigue, I think these fitness exercises are extremely important, because the upcoming expedition will demand absolutely everything from us in terms of mental and physical strength. We still don’t know when we will get our work visa. Today, on Friday, nothing more will happen in this regard. We are waiting for the important document from Saara. Then we can make another attempt to get the official work permit on Monday at the earliest. At the same time, we are working on checking all our technology and testing it under Mongolian conditions, such as setting up laptops for the expedition. That means creating image and text folders, checking cameras, testing image compression for the website and facebook, sending the first update via the satellite phone, taking another close look at the FTP server where I put the compressed images, checking the many different chargers for the different batteries, charging all the batteries with them, studying the new GPS system, which we got from Dieter Höpfner and Tom Biermann from Därr in Munich the day before we left, reading instructions and much, much more.

“Man, man, man, what an immense effort it is to make such live coverage work,” I moan a little. “It’s part of your life’s journey,” says Tanja. “Sure, it is, it’s fun too. But after the exhausting months in Germany, I would have liked to rest for a couple of weeks. Unfortunately, that’s impossible. August is the last warm month in Mongolia. So we have to hurry. First of all, we need our residence permit, nothing works without it. Then we have to move our base from Ulan Bator to the provincial town of Erdenet, 400 km away, to buy horses and a horse-drawn cart. Because of the extensive equipment, we need a minibus or something similar. Let’s see where we can get one. Then we’ll have to convert the horse-drawn wagon to suit our needs, provided we can find a good frame. Hopefully we can find someone who can weld. Then we need two reliable companions and six good horses. Two trained draught horses for the wagon, two horses for us and two for our companions at an acceptable price. Unfortunately, due to the often early onset of winter in Mongolia, we can’t take our time to do all the work. We have to hurry,” I say as the doorbell rings. It is Ulzii who has come by to find out more about the planned tour.

Is Ulzii suitable for the expedition?

“Sit down,” I offer him a place at the table, whereupon he sits down on a chair, somewhat sheepishly. “Would you like some tea?” asks Tanja. “I’d love some,” he says and nods. We start talking rather slowly. “Do you have riding boots, a sleeping bag, warm clothes, a saddle, bridle etc.?” I ask. “No, I haven’t,” he replies. “We’ll buy you a horse, but you’ll have to get the bridle and saddle yourself. You must have relatives or a friend where you can borrow them?” we ask. “Ulzii looks at us rather uncertainly. “We can’t equip you completely Ulzii. You’ll have to bring some of it yourself. “I have a Deel but I don’t have any shoes,” he says. “You still have a few days to get what you need. Will you be able to do that?” I ask, to which he nods again uncertainly. Then we talk about his salary. The average salary in Mongolia is currently around US$150 a month. As we want to have a satisfied companion, we offer him US$ 200 a month. “We will pay you 50 US$ after the first week. You’ll get the rest when we reach our goal. If you need money in between, just let us know. “Is that okay with you?” I ask. Ulzii doesn’t answer but nods his head slightly again. It takes a while, then he says: “Can I have US$ 60 a week?” “Ulzii, you’ll get more than the average, plus we’ll buy a horse for you and you’ll get all the food during the expedition. We think that’s a good offer,” explains Tanja. Ulzii thinks about it for a moment, but then nods quite happily. Before he leaves again, I show him the rough route on the map. We’ll take a shorter route to reach the Zataan camp in time for winter,” I explain. One of your most important tasks will be to look after the horses. We must do everything in our power not to lose them through theft. The best thing to do is to put in guard shifts. Each of us has to keep watch for two hours. On a rotating basis, of course. That means the first watch is from 10:00 at night to 12:00 at night, the second from 12:00 to 2:00 in the morning, the third from 2:00 to 4:00 and the fourth watch is from 4:00 to 6:00. So we still need a fourth man. Do you know anyone who would like to accompany us?” I ask. “No,” he replies. “Maybe we can find a suitable man in Erdenet. We’ll have to ask Saraa. She always has very good ideas and seems to be a real organizational talent,” I muse aloud. Towards late afternoon, we say goodbye to our future companion again. “I’ll ask my parents about the missing equipment,” says Ulzii with a smile. “You do that,” I reply and shake his hand.

Since Ulzii is not a horseman and hardly knows anything about animals, he spends his life in the city and therefore has little to do with a nomad, it is questionable for us whether he is the right companion. Tanja and I are not sure at this point whether he will be a burden or a relief for us. “Only time will tell,” I say. Well, he makes quite a nice impression and he doesn’t seem to drink vodka either,” Tanja lists a few positive points. “Yes, and who knows, maybe he’ll develop into a real horse man,” I hope.

Dentists without borders

In the evening we set off to meet Tuul. Tuul is a surgeon and works for the non-profit organization Dentists Without Borders. A dentist working in our home town of Schwaig seems to know us and has informed the board of Dentists Without Borders and Tuul’s husband about us. He wrote us an email and asked us to get in touch with Tuul. As we consider the project to be very interesting and worthy of support, Tanja immediately made an appointment with Tuul.

We are now sitting in a restaurant on Sükhbataar Square and talking animatedly about the organization. “Every year we send more doctors to Mongolia and other countries such as Nepal, Sri Lanka, India, Romania, Mongolia, Zambia, Namibia and now also to Rwanda and the Philippines. This year alone, 60 dentists from European countries will be working here in Mongolia free of charge. We are taking them to the most remote regions of the country. Soon also to the Zataan people,” she explains. “To the Zataan?” we are surprised. “Yes, why?” you ask. “The Zataan are our expedition destination. We want to spend the winter with them,” I explain. “Well, you’ve got your work cut out for you. It’s the coldest region in Mongolia. Apart from that, a shaman meeting will be taking place there soon. Our dentists will be there at exactly that time. Maybe you’d like to go and see it? I can arrange it for you if you like. It would even be a good idea as you can see how our doctors treat people under the simplest of conditions,” she offers. “Oh, that sounds fantastic,” says Tanja happily. “It would be really great, but we can’t leave all our equipment alone and just drive up north,” I object. “I’ll find a safe place for your equipment. You’d just have to find someone for the horses,” says Tuul. “Well, I have no idea where we can keep the horses safe during this time. It looks like they’re at great risk,” I reply. “Yes, horses like to be stolen,” Tuul agrees. “We should just paint them,” I suggest. “Then you can’t just hide them”. “Hm, that won’t do you any good. “The horses are usually taken straight to a restaurant where they are slaughtered immediately. So the paint won’t protect them,” Tuul warns us. “Slaughtered?” we ask in horror. “Yes, they are sold for little money. The main thing is that the thief gets some money,” we hear worriedly. “First we have to see how we can get all our equipment to Erdenet. Then we have to find out where we can get horses and how we can stable them. Not forgetting the construction of the horse-drawn wagon. Apart from that, we mustn’t lose too much time, otherwise winter will catch us. Nevertheless, I would very much like to experience the shaman meeting with the Zataan,” I conclude my thoughts. Over the course of the evening, we think through various options and come to the conclusion that we will meet again at a later date.

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