Things get really serious again for Rufus

Diamantina Lakes Camp – 09.10.2002

Tanja’s index finger looks much better in the morning. “It no longer burns and the crack has already closed a little. Jafar’s boil did not fill up overnight either. Istan’s wound also looks good. The tumor has completely receded. However, a little pus still flows out. Without being panicked by spooky noises, our boys can be loaded. The temperatures are a little better today and we are making good progress. At around 11:00 a.m. we cross the next big water barrier, the Diamantina River. At the point where the track crosses it, it is only just under four kilometers wide. It goes up and down like a roller coaster. In some places, the riverbed seems to be almost 10 meters deep. Without a doubt, there is no getting through here during the rainy season.

We reach the headquarters of the national park and the ranger’s house. While Tanja stays with the camels, I set off to report our arrival to the rangers. In contrast to most homesteads in the outback, an impressively large solar system generates the electricity for the few houses here. It is a blessing for body and soul. In all the other places we have visited so far, a loud generator rattles incessantly, often in the center of the action.

Even before I can introduce myself, Natalie, the ranger’s wife, knows who I am. “Ah the camel man,” she calls out and greets me with a laugh. “I just wanted to ask if we could water our camels here somewhere and fill up a little water for us?” I ask. “Sure, you’ll find two rainwater tanks behind the barn and you can draw water for your camels from the tap next to it. It’s river water that we pump up here. It looks brown but it’s quite good,” she explains kindly. “Is there still water in the river?” “Yes, there are some large, natural catchment basins that normally never dry out.” “You’re lucky in this drought.” “That’s right, water is essential for survival out here,” she laughs.

After another brief conversation, we lead our animals to the place described and water them. Although they have only been without water for two days, they drink a total of 130 liters. When the equally friendly Alex greets us, I ask him for the best route to Mount Windsor Homestead. “If you follow the path at the end of the landing strip, you will come to a fence. Keep to its right side until you come to an open gate. You will then find yourself at another fence that will lead you about 25 kilometers through the national park until you reach Mount Windsor Station. All you have to do there is cross the Mayne River,” he explains, pointing to my map with his finger. “Where are you setting up camp today?” he wants to know before we leave the former Diamantina Lakes homestead behind us. “It looks like green stuff back there on the hillside. I think we’ll stay there,’ I reply. “We’ll come and visit you tonight,” he says.

We find a wonderful, shady camping spot under a sprawling gidyea tree. The camels have many different bushes in the immediate vicinity where they can fill their bellies. Tanja is just about to settle down on her camp bed when headlights pierce the night sky. “I think they’re actually coming,” I say. Minutes later, we greet the ranger, his wife and their little daughter named Brie. Natalie presents Tanja with a few oranges, apples, a home-grown cucumber, a home-baked cake and a bone for Rufus. “Oh, thank you so much,” says Tanja with all her heart. “I thought you’d love fresh things the most.” “Yes, fresh food is a real treasure out here,” Tanja agrees.

We light the fire again, introduce our visitors to the camels and talk about our expedition. In the course of the conversation, we learn from Alex that we have to take tremendous care of Rufus. “I heard that five tons (5000 kilograms) of poisoned bait was dropped from a plane in the Longreach area to control wild dogs and dingoes. So these things are all over the place. A few years ago, our own dog died miserably from a dingo bait. I tell you, it’s not a pretty sight. If your Rufus catches one of these baits, you must shoot him immediately. The agony is horrible.” “Oh dear, now our brave dog has walked and ridden so far. He has survived so many dangers and now, for the last thousand kilometers, things are getting really serious again. Those things could be in the camp. How are we supposed to see them?” “You can only get Rufus across the country safely by keeping him under strict control. He must always be on the chain and it’s best if he’s always on horseback. But without wanting to paint the devil on the wall, even then it’s a matter of luck to get a dog safely through such a contaminated area,” he warns us urgently.

It is already 8:30 p.m. when the family says goodbye to us. As soon as the car headlights disappear into the blackness of the night, we jump into our sleeping bags.