Not even time for a conversation

Day: 112-113

Sunrise:
08:35/08:36

Sunset:
17:37/17:37

Total kilometers:
1146

Soil condition:
Ice, snow

Temperature – Day (maximum):
minus 13°C

Temperature – day (minimum):
minus 18°C

Temperature – Night:
minus 27°C

Latitude:
51°21’785”

Longitude:
099°21’046”

Maximum height:
1475 m above sea level

Bilgee arrived in Mörön at 6:00 in the morning. “I’m waiting here for a ride to Erdenet. It looks like we won’t be leaving until tomorrow,” he informs us briefly. Then I call Saraa to ask if Tulgaa has arrived in Mörön with our horses. “No, not yet. Yesterday he reported briefly that he had reached Khatgal.” “He’s only in Khatgal? Then he still has at least 100 kilometers to go. Is everything all right? Is he all right?” I ask in surprise, because he’s already been on the road for eight days and only wanted to take three days in total. “He’s doing well. But he has difficulties with Sharga and Bor. They are very slow,” replies Saraa. “Yes, I know that. They were slow from day one. One of us had to drive them all the time. Well, it doesn’t matter how long he takes, the main thing is that he arrives with our animals unharmed,” I end the phone call.

In the late afternoon, Sara’s friend Tsaya, who lived and studied in America for eight years, drives by with an American journalist. They are on their way to the Tsataans. The journalist writes an article about shamanism for National Geographic. As shamanism is widespread among the Tuwa people, who are called Tsataans by the Mongols, the American would like to interview some of them on the subject. “Come in and have a cup of tea with us,” Tanja invites the small group of travelers into our yurt. “We don’t have time. Jeff has to be back in Ulan Bator in four days to catch his plane to the States,” Tsaya apologizes in accent-free American. She quickly hands over a parcel that Saraa has sent for us and darts off again. “Reminds me of Europe. People are all stressed. Not even time for a conversation. If the American only spends one night and one day with the Tsataan, it won’t be easy to write a well-researched article. But time is money and quality often suffers as a result,” I say. Since Saraa told us that Tsaya has been living with a Tuwa man for four years, we wonder whether she lives in a tepee in the taiga or shares a modern life in the city with her partner? “Maybe we’ll have the opportunity to talk to her? That would certainly be interesting,” Tanja ponders. “If we live with the Tsataan in the taiga, we’ll certainly have plenty of opportunities,” I reply, opening the package.

We look forward to your comments!