An extraordinary birthday

Day: 184-191

Sunrise:
09:13/09:03

Sunset:
17:56/18:08

Total kilometers:
1281

Soil condition:
Ice, snow

Temperature – Day (maximum):
minus 15°C

Temperature – day (minimum):
minus 33°C

Temperature – Night:
minus 43°C

Latitude:
51°33’336”

Longitude:
099°15’341”

Maximum height:
1981 m above sea level

“I wish you a wonderful birthday, my darling. Good health, confidence, happiness, more great trips and many years together with me,” says Tanja, smiling at me. “Thank you,” I reply, yawning and content with my life. “We’ll take it easy today,” she says, as she does almost every morning. “Exactly, no one gets me off the wall before 11:00 a.m.,” I reply with a laugh. “What do you think of pancakes for breakfast?” “Do we have milk for that?” “Milk? I don’t need that. We still have a packet of freeze-dried pancakes,” Tanja replies. “Oh delicious. This is a real birthday breakfast,” I say happily. While I do my morning yoga, Tanja mixes the pound cake powder with water and puts the pan on the stove. A delicious aroma permeates the yurt as the dough sizzles in the oil. “The first one is almost ready,” says Tanja, which is why I finish my exercises, hop off the bed and get dressed.

“Look what I’ve got there!” she sings, swinging a milk carton in her right hand. “Milk! Unbelievable. Have you kept it until now and successfully hidden it from me?” I ask. “I have. And if you like, you can have a big mug of birthday cocoa.” “You bet I would like that. Oh boy. Who would have thought of being served pound cake and cocoa here in the middle of the taiga. That’s really fantastic. You’re great,” I say, sitting expectantly at the table. “Enjoy your meal,” says Tanja, serving me my favorite breakfast. “Oh man! Oh, that’s delicious,’ I mumble, smacking my lips. As soon as I’ve eaten the first pound cake, the second one slides onto my plate. Tanja has conjured up plum jam from one of the many food boxes, which I spread on the fried slices of dough. “Hmmmmm, hmmm,” I say. “You only have to live in a yurt for a few weeks at an outside temperature of minus 40 °C and a dish like this becomes Jell-O,” I laugh.

“Knock, knock!” Tsaya calls and enters our home. “Happy birthday Denis,” she congratulates me and hands me a small apple in which she has engraved her congratulations with a sharp object. “An apple! That’s great. Where did you conjure it up?” I ask, thanking her. “Ultsan likes to eat apples. We brought a small bag full with us the last time we were in Tsagaan Nuur. This one is one of the last,” she explains.

While Tanja is busy baking cakes, I use the time to chop some firewood. Even when it’s my birthday, the daily chores have to be done. In the afternoon, Purvee, the shaman’s wife, comes by and congratulates me. “This is for you,” she says in Mongolian and hands me a pendant carved from reindeer horn. “That’s a dog,” I say, recognizing the dog’s head. “Mogi,” she laughs. “That’s right, it looks just like him,” I reply, to which we both laugh heartily. “Who carved this? Gamba?” I ask. “Tijmee”, (“Yes”) he is a good artist,” she tells us. “That’s sweet of you,” I thank him and hang Mogi’s carved head around my neck. As she says goodbye after a bowl of coffee, Tanja says, “Now you’ve got a carving from the Tuwa shaman. That’s something special.” “Yes, I feel the same way. I’ll treasure it,” I reply a little proudly.

As we sit at our little wooden table in the evening and I’m thinking about getting ready for bed, Tanja suddenly says, “We should go and see Tsaya.” “Why? I’d rather lie down and enjoy a bit of peace and quiet,” I reply. “She’s felt a bit lonely since Ultsan left with the reindeer. We just pop in, ask how she’s doing, have a cup of tea with her and leave again. That won’t take long. It’s also your birthday today. It would be a shame to go to bed so early on such a special day.” “All right, then. If you say so,” I give in and put my jacket on. “Go on ahead. I’ll be right there,” says Tanja. “Okay,” I mumble, wondering why I’m supposed to trudge off alone.

“Knock! Knock!” I shout, knocking on Tsaya’s low blockhouse door. “Come in!” it replies. When I open the door, I can’t believe my eyes at first. The hut is full of people. Everyone looks at me kindly. “Wow! Sain bajtsgaana uu (“Good day”), the whole tribe is gathered here,” I say in amazement. “Yes, anything that can walk. They’re here for your birthday,” explains Tsaya. “Because of my birthday?” “Tanja has invited all the tribe members to a party,” she explains. “Well, that’s a surprise,” I laugh, whereupon those present return my laughter and applaud vigorously. “Sit down,” Tsaya offers me the place of honor at the end of the room in front of a lavishly laid table. “Well, you’ve organized this wonderfully,” I say happily, looking at the small table with pieces of bread spread with cheese and jam, a whole cake, a bowl of salted meatballs, sliced sausage and a bowl of delicious chocolate. “Tanja did everything,” says Tsaya. “When did she prepare this? Didn’t I notice?” I ask as the door opens and Tanja comes in. “Whenever you were outside making wood,” she replies, apparently having heard my question. “Unbelievable. This really is a big surprise. “Look what I’ve got there!” she says, conjuring up a five-liter bottle of beer from behind her back. “Beer! Beer in the taiga! I can’t believe it!” I shout in delight. “And five liters at once. Wow, wow, wow. This is getting better and better,” I shout with a laugh, whereupon everyone present joins in my laughter.

“It wasn’t that easy. I gave Shagai the money the last time he was here. He got everything and brought it with him a few days ago, just before the men left with the reindeer. He almost messed it up. He was completely drunk when he stumbled out of the four-wheel drive bus. “Denis, look what I’ve got!” he shouted. He held the box with the beer and the goodies up in the air. Thank God you were out getting wood and didn’t notice. I immediately took Shagai by the arm and led him into Tsaya’s hut. When he stepped over the threshold, he fell lengthways. The box crashed to the floor. Fortunately, nothing was broken. Tsaya then hid everything and so we managed to pull off the surprise as a team.” “Super! Really great! You’re a great woman!” I say happily, to which everyone applauds again, although I’m sure that nobody understood a word except Tsaya.

“Should Gamba serve the beer?” asks Tanja. “Sure, he should bless it and serve it. He’s the boss here,” I reply, handing him the monster bottle of beer. Gamba smiles at me, thanks me and opens the cap. Then he blesses the drink and hands me the first bowl of beer. “Hubaaa!” he says, meaning that I should drink the brew on ex. Knowing the custom, I dip my right ring finger into the brown liquid and flick it in all four directions. Now that the nature spirits have had their share, I put the bowl to my lips. “You should make a toast,” Tanja reminds me. “Oh, I almost forgot. The beer is just too tempting,” I laugh. “Well, good,” I say and continue; “As you all know, we were in your beautiful country 16 years ago. That’s when we heard about you, the reindeer nomads. Since that time, I have had the dream of spending a winter with you. And now we are here. We have been living with you for over a month and think it’s wonderful. The Tuwa are fantastic.

But of course we are not only interested in spending time with you, but also in finding out what difficulties you have out here. We want to find out what you need and what help you need. We now know about the problems of high blood pressure, the early collapse of your sea power, dental problems, back pain and other health challenges. We will tell the people of the world about it. And hope that through our work more and better help will come to your community. It gives us great pleasure to be able to help you in this way. You are an extraordinary little people on our Mother Earth. We sincerely hope that this chosen lifestyle will remain with you for many decades to come. Thank you very much,” I end my speech, which Tsaya has translated word for word. The response is roaring applause and cheering. “I raise the bowl in the air again. “Thank you so much!” I shout again and drink it down in one huge gulp. Again there is cheering and loud laughter.

“This is for you,” says Saintsetseg, giving me another pendant carved from reindeer horn in the shape of a reindeer. “Tschin setgeleesee bajrlalaa”, (“Thank you very much”) I say, taking the precious gift with two hands. “Now I’ve received a carving from the two shamans of the Tuwa people living in East Taiga. That’s fantastic,” I say happily

I hand the bowl back to Gamba, who fills it again and passes it on to Tanja. She also thanks the people here and empties it with a few sips. Now move the drinking vessel around in a clockwise direction. Everyone puts their lips to it and slurps it out. “Here you have your own cup,” says Tanja and hands me my drinking vessel. I am grateful to her, as I am convinced that all kinds of viruses, bacteria and diseases such as jaundice are brought to people through the cup that is passed around.

Meanwhile, Tanja is running around serving our 20 guests sausage slices, chocolate, salted pancakes and so on. As Gamba pours me another drink, I have the feeling that I’m praising the Tuwa women once again. “And not only are you strong women who spend the harsh winter out here, no, that’s not all. I think the Tuwa women are very beautiful women!” “Hi, hi, hi, hi,” they cheer sheepishly. “If I didn’t already have a wonderful wife, I would definitely marry a Tuwa woman.” “Hiiii, hi, hi, hiiii!” are the next volleys of laughter. When I say that I also find the old suras beautiful, those present literally collapse with laughter. “No, no, you don’t need to laugh. I mean it seriously. She really is a beautiful woman,” I say, whereupon the roof of the hut almost lifts off into the cold Taiga sky with laughter and cheering. Well, I can understand the Tuwa’s outburst of amusement. Although Suren is only 59 years old, her hard life has left such a mark on her that she could easily be considered 70. What’s more, her wrinkled face has hardly any teeth. However, you can see that she was once a beauty in her younger years.

Just as the bowl of beer reaches Suren, I raise my drinking bowl again to toast the gathering. The hilarity is soon deafening. On the other hand, this was pure coincidence. But the fun is immense. “Come on, push Tanja to one side and sit next to him,” Tsaya teases Suren. The poor woman no longer knows where to look and her face turns red with shame.

“You should bring the vodka,” Tsaya whispers in Tanja’s ear. A little later, she offers a bottle of good vodka. Gamba immediately blesses them, hands me the first cup and calls out; “Hubaaa!” “Hubaaa”, I reply and drink the cup in one gulp. “Oh, I think that was one cup too many,” I murmur, as the terribly strong drink immediately goes to my head. As on New Year’s Eve, the atmosphere is now really getting going. “For me, today is also my birthday,” says Gamba, as he is the same age as me. “Fantastic,” I call out to the shaman, cheering him on. “The Tuwa no longer celebrate their birthdays when they get old,” explains Tsaya. “But 52 isn’t old, is it?” I reply. “We do,” I hear. “Look what I’ve got here!” Tanja shouts again, now also slightly tipsy, and holds up a gigantic box of chocolate. “I can’t believe it!” I exclaim happily and everyone claps their hands. Tanja immediately distributes the delicacy among the guests. “Hmmm, tastes wonderful,” I say, letting a bar melt in my mouth. “Hubaaa!” Gamba shouts, handing me another cup of the devil’s stuff. “Hubaaa!” I shout, taking a sip. Then Gamba sings a song. Since I can hardly sing any songs, I sing oh Christmas tree to the great delight of my guests.

It’s midnight when Tanja and I rock back to our yurt with a slight bump. As I lie down on the wall, it starts to move and turn. “Have we had another earthquake?” I ask. “The only thing that’s shaking is the vodka in your veins,” Tanja replies. “Did you enjoy the party?” she asks. “It was one of the best in my life. It will certainly stay in my memory forever.” “Yes, there won’t be many people who have celebrated their fiftieth with the Tuwa,” she replies, pressing a kiss to my lips.

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