say good-bye

“A memory of us”, says Ultsan and hands to me a reindeer worked from reindeer’s horn. “Oh, many thanks, this is a nice work. Have you carved this?”, I ask excited. “Tijmee”, he answers nodding. “And this is for you”, says Tsaya and gives to Tanja a small bag made from gazelle’s fur with inside a carved reindeer’s head from horn. “We will ride today to Tsgaan Nuur. I have to go to the re-examination of my heart to Mörön and Ultsan has strong toothaches. He will visit there a dentist. We wanted to wait, actually, till you go, to say properly goodbye to you, however, we get a lift from Tsagaan Nuur to Mörön. So we must say already goodbye now”, explains Tsaya. “We will never forget the time with you”, I say. “We also will not. Your presence has enriched us and has shortened quite a lot of long winter’s days pleasantly”, answers Tsaya. We still talk for a while. Then our both hosts leave the tepee, to go to saddle their horses.

“Now we should go to them and divide my last bottle of vodka with them together”, Bilgee suggests. “In the morning?”, I ask. “Denis, we are in Mongolia. There one drinks vodka at every time of day and every occasion”, reminds me Tanja. “How I could forget this”, I reply laughing. After a little while we sit in Tsaya and Ultsans tepee. Ovogdorj, Ultsans brother Hoo, his uncle Bayandalai and Shagai are also present. Without circumlocutions Bilgee unpacks the bottle. Immediately it is opened. I bless the drink according to the Mongolian custom, type my right ring finger in the clear liquid and flick it in all directions to share with the spirits. In short words I thank for the open admission in the circle of the Tuwa community and that they allowed us to participate from their life. “ As you know we have documented our experiences during our presence and hope therefore to leave for future generations a time faithful document of your life in the taiga. We found out on own body which challenges you have to master with your life style here outdoors in an often pitiless nature. Now we can understand why you prefer this simple life and why you do not want a life in town. Even if it is difficult and sometimes dangerous to be out in the nature this pure life form gives fulfillment. Far off the industrial stress which, so I know from own experience, many people early kills. The industrial world, many people do like so much with out understanding how high the price to be paid is. Excessive consumption, personal ambition and other reasons lead to the fact that the people can be misused. People work for little money up to 16 hours a day to be able to involve in putatively important consumption.

In comparison with that your life is to be preferred in the taiga. Continue in such a way. Unfortunately, the modern world spreads like an illness in every corner of this earth. Mobile phones, for example, penetrate like a virus into all regions. To maintain an original life form seems to be impossible.

Meanwhile power saws, batteries, small electrical appliances and also already a motorbike belong to your world. This is the beginning of the consumption spiral who leads us people in dependence. For all these goods which seem at first sight ease your life you have to earn constrainedly money and exactly in it there is the danger to lose your original life form. We wish you, your families and reindeers still many remaining lighthearted years in the taiga“, I say and end may speech.

Tsaya translates my words. After she ends there is short silence, everybody nods. “Hubaaa!”, I say loudly and rush the little glass vodka down. “Hubaaa!” answer the persons present laughing in a happy mood.

“You are very good people”, Ovogdorj says. “We were happy about your presence. I can remember every party which you have invited us and have celebrated with us. It was a nice time. We hope you come again”, he says and touches my arm while he with a strong Hubaaa his little glass drinks. “When you go you will leave a gap which is hard to be filled again. We like and appreciate you very much. We laughed together and divided one or other drama. Now we know that also Europeans are able to get trough such a hard winter with bravado. We give our respect to you. You are the first Europeans who have shared the life during the whole winter and spring with us. You are no more strangers for us you are a part of our big family. Every person present lost his shyness towards you. By the life with you we will see the coming tourists visiting us in the summer camp in a different light. You have taught us a lot. For it we would like to thank from whole heart”, we hear Tsayas words. “Hubaaa!”, I shout and try to wipe me with the shirt sleeve unobtrusively a few tears out of sight. Tanja and I are touched by the nice words. “A small present for you”, says Ultsan and passes to Tanja a gazelle’s foot in him a leather band is bound. “This is to make your horse faster. We say, the light slash of a gazelle’s foot on the bottom of a horse makes it as fast as a gazelle”, he explains. Tanja is obviously touched and thanks again warmly. After the bottle is empty we take a group photo. Then Tsaya and Ultsan leave their tepee to ride in the direction of Tsagaan Nuur.