The last days in the Tuwa camp

The summer seems to win slowly the struggle against the winter. Every day it becomes warmer. The thermometer climbs on some days up to 23 °C and falls at the nights only on below 7 °C. For the beginning of June still substantially, however, we are confident to enjoy soon also at night plus degrees.

The last days in the Tuwa camp pass peacefully. Thank God without incidents, dramas or unforeseen events. Till this moment at least. We use the time to trim the mane of our horses. The Tuwa think this is important because of the ticks and the coming heat.

Ultsan presents us richly with elk- gazelle- and ibex meat. All hunters have returned successfully. To get unasked meat from the tribe indicates that we have become a member of them. One divides with us after family custom the most important food. We are accepted. Also we are visited again every day. This is due to the fact that many of the families have established their tepees beside ours. Days ago our tepee was standing on the edge of the camp. Now we are surrounded by tents. The quiet time is over.

In the evening we are admitted to one more ritual of the shaman. We get even the permission to document the beginning of his dance. Another sign which privilege we enjoy meanwhile. So that the Spirit is not disturbed by the flashlight Gambas sister Buyantogtoh asks us after a little while not to keep on taking pictures. Immediately I lay the camera on the side and observe the ritual. At 1:30 o’clock at night we ask Gambas son Sansar who acts with Buyantogtoh as a sort of ceremony master to be allowed to leave the tepee. Little time later we did creep in our sleeping-bags. „Do dong! Do dong! Do dong!“, the mystically sounding drumbeats accompany us in the sleep. When I wake up briefly in the morning at 4:30 o’clock, I still hear the drumbeats.

The next day we start to say goodbye to the families. We thank for the unforgettable time, the hospitality and admission in their community. Because we are the first Europeans whom they have admitted in her middle. We hand small presents like candles, perfume, tea and tobacco. The shy Suren does not look at me when I speak. No miracle, because since I called her on the New Year celebration under the influence of some little glasses vodka a nice woman, she is teased about that by all Tuwa. “We will start the day after tomorrow”, explains Tanja to her in Mongolian and continues; “in Tsagaan Nuur Bilgee will leave us. Because of the horse thief problem we look in Tsagaan Nuur for a new horse man to protect our horses. Then it further goes to Khatgal and Mörön. In Mörön Bilgee will meet us again. He will bring his two children Orgio and Husle. Then we want to go together the remaining distance to Erdenet. At least this is the plan.” Suren understands Tanja and nods. “What do you make with your power saw? I could use that”, she asks. Tanja tries to pass over her question in Mongolian kind, however, the otherwise so shy Suren asks again. Tanja does not give her a straight answer on her question and passes to her a thermo shirt and I give her three candles. Suren puts the small presents on the side, which seep like tiny drops of water into the desert sands. We say friendly goodbye. Suren does not know that we have promised the power saw since a long time to Tsaya and Ultsan. How should we have explained this to her without making her envy? Apart from that she has a 30-year-old, strong stepson. If Nyam Dalai drank not so much vodka and only look after new clothes and alcohol supplies he could by a power saw and would be able to help his old stepmother to prepare wood for the hard winter. Meanwhile he hangs out in the camp without moving a finger.

Because Ultsan has been asking me yesterday whether I would sent him a forehead lamp from Germany, I use the opportunity to speak with him and Tsaya. “Such a forehead lamp is very expensive. Also the posting and duty are costly. We gave to you stove, glasses, power saw and more for more than 700,000 Tugrik (400€). I hope you are contented with it?” “ But, yes,“, both answer. “For us it is not possible to present every family member in the same frame like you. But each of your people got from us something. We would like to leave you as friends and keep you as friends in the heart. Should be one of the Tuwa discontented at the end I ask you to remind him what we have done for the tribe and what a miraculous time we have spent together. The most important of a meeting is the first meeting and the parting. If both runs positively, positive recollections remain, sometimes even up to the end of life. This is a miraculous treasure”, I explain. Ultsan and Tsaya who live now also only few meters beside us in their tepee nod. “Do you come again?”, asks Ultsan. “I do not know it. The world is small, however, before us lies still a big distance to travel”, I answer. “You come again certainly”, is Tsaya sure.