Reindeer Caravan

Yesterday a group of Tuwa men came to the camp. They live during the winter with their families in Tsagaan Nuur. Once in winter all men gather to ride with their reindeers to a remote valley where there is the main herd. Because of the constant danger to lose reindeers by wolves it is important to check the state of the herd. “Can the animals reach with the search for feed over the border to Russia?” I ask. “In this valley there is enough feed. The mountains are so high on the left and on the right that they work like a barrier. Wolves are a big menace. We lose every year animals by wolf attacks. Maybe we build a fence. It will keep the wolves from reaching in the valley,” explains Shagai. “What kind of fence?” I am surprised. “We settle trees and branches at the valley exit. This holds the reindeers in the valley and the wolves normally do not enter”. Is it so simple to deter wolves?“ I ask. “In this matter wolves are silly. If they reach to a barrier and have no reason to break through, they turn back”, I hear and do ask myself whether this statement is based on a translation error or whether wolves held really so easy away from their prey?

Denis come, the men are about to go! Tanja shouts I put my shoes on, slip in the down jacket, catch the camera and hurry outside. The reindeers are already loaded and ready for departure. We rush behind to be able to see the reindeer caravan. Wrapped up in their deels, felt boots, caps and gloves the men pull up their animals behind themselves. Each of them has loaded one reindeer with a saddle and on the others covers, coats, spare clothes, food, and even a metal stove and stove flue. 10 to 14 days twelve men will be on the move in the coldest time of the year. The speed of reindeers running there is amazing. We hardly come for taking photos, run by the snow beside the group. The Tuwa men laugh and wave friendly. Each of them has between three and five animals, besides, now fleet-footed totting about the narrow path. It goes little bit down the mountain. On an open plateau all riders will assemble to a caravan with approx. 50 reindeers. “They are gone”, I snort out of breath. “Yes, a pity. They are too fast,” answers Tanja. “It would be a great adventure to be able to accompany this group”, I say thoughtfully. “With minus 30°C to minus 45°C I would like you to rather remain with me in the ger.” “Probably you are right,” I answer. As we are on our way back the sun has hidden behind one of many mountains.

A lonesome rider leads his horse and packhorse about the camp as we reach our ger again. The man gives us hardly attention, rises from the saddle and binds his horse in front of Gambas hut. We find out that he wanders even in winter by the woods to look for the expensive jade stone.